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Takayama is a small town in the foothills of the Japan Alps. Far from the sea and any major cities, for many foreign visitors, a stay in this remote river town is their only chance to see rural Japan.
Maps show the historic attractions, all easy to find on foot. But, some of the best places in Takayama, the shiawase (happiness) spots, are not marked anywhere.
On a recent Japan Unmasked tour, our group found shiawase in some unconventional places.
We started by sampling shiawase sake and dried squid in the courtyard of the Funasaka brewery. Then after a traditional dinner at our minshuku, some of us went for a drink and a memorable conversation about Moomins at Red Hill, a cosy highly-rated bar run by friendly English-speaking local woman, Hisayo.
The following day, as a break from soba and sushi, most of us went for a burger at US themed, locally-run Center4, (“the best burger I have ever had”, commented one of the group).
Two of the group had a reviving coffee and sweet shiawase snacks at the excellent Don, a stylish 60-year-old cafe in the heart of the town.
Last, but not least, is 半弓道場 (Hankyudojo), Takayama`s most secret shiawase spot, hidden well-away from the main tourist trail. I heard about it late last year from IJT Tour leader Steve Parker, Hankyudojo roughly translates as the Mini Archery Range.
Located a short walk from Red Hill, in the same Asahimachi nightlife district, the Mini Archery Range opens only in the evenings, like all the bars surrounding it.
There is no entrance fee or membership requirement, and no complicated instructions to follow, just a sign saying `No drunks`.
You sit on a stool, face sideways, then fire 10 arrows at a target 7 metres away. The audience sitting behind, when appropriate, offer tips, encouragement and plenty of laughter.
The kind old couple, who run the range, happily advise new archers, as do some of the regulars. We desperately needed their help, but even with it, we seriously struggled; combining our group score would not have got us a place on the High Score Board.
Some of the group hit the target, just not usually the one they aimed at. Like myself, the range owners were glad everybody enjoyed it, and that none of our misfired arrows caused a diplomatic incident.
Cheap at just 300 yen, the Mini Archery Range is one of Takayama`s finest shiawase spots; “It should be on the itinerary”, one of the group said. From now on, it will be.