Historic Mountain Trails – A Picture Blog

Posted on by Steve Parker
The local (Shiba) dogs are friendly too

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InsideJapan Tours’ intrepid tour leader, Steve Parker, is a keen mountain walker and with Japan being made up of mountains (70% of the country is mountainous), it’s the perfect place for him. Having taken people around Japan for quite a few years now, he designed a tour that he wanted to do and in July this year, the “Historic Mountain Trails” tour took on Tokyo, the Nakasendo Way, the beautiful but unforgiving Japanese Alps, conquered Mt Fuji along with a slice of culture in Kyot, the castle city of Matsumoto and soaked in the hot springs of Hakone. The tour is not exactly a stroll in the hills, but includes some pretty serious hikes with plenty of breath-taking scenery. So in Steve’s own words and pictures, here’s the Historic Mountain Trails….

On Historic Mountain Trail tour this summer, we experienced the bustle of Tokyo...
On Historic Mountain Trail tour this summer, we experienced the bustle of Tokyo…

 

…then the serenity of the Kiso valley in less than 12 hours
…then the serenity of the Kiso valley in less than 12 hours

 

Kind Suzuki San runs the little midpoint rest house on the Nakasendo Highway walk between Magome and Tsumago village. A welcome cup of tea in this traditional rural shelter and a local folk song from our host took us back to an era centuries past.
Kind Suzuki San runs the little midpoint rest house on the Nakasendo Highway walk between Magome and Tsumago village. A welcome cup of tea in this traditional rural shelter and a local folk song from our host took us back to an era centuries past.

 

The local (Shiba) dogs are friendly too
The local (Shiba) dogs are friendly too

 

The 5 mile Kiso valley walk is a tranquil trail through forest and hamlets. Summer here is hot and humid so a welcome natural shower under the Otaki waterfalls is an invigorating way to cool off!
The 5 mile Kiso valley walk is a tranquil trail through forest and hamlets. Summer here is hot and humid so a welcome natural shower under the Otaki waterfalls is an invigorating way to cool off!

 

The first afternoon of hiking along the pristine Azusa River is flat and shaded. You can even buy soft ice cream at the rest huts en-route to Yokoo Hut!
The first afternoon of hiking along the pristine Azusa River is flat and shaded. You can even buy soft ice cream at the rest huts en-route to Yokoo Hut!
Yokoo Hut - the first night of "shared accommodation". Bunk beds and earplugs - a perfect night's sleep before the tough trail tomorrow(??)
Yokoo Hut – the first night of “shared accommodation”. Bunk beds and earplugs – a perfect night’s sleep before the tough trail tomorrow(??)

 

After the river the trail steepens and becomes rockier underfoot.
After the river the trail steepens and becomes rockier underfoot.

 

Then its crampons on and hiking over snowfield for several hundred metres
Then its crampons on and hiking over snowfield for several hundred metres

 

Karesawa Lodge (2300m) - a mid valley "opt-out" accommodation for those too tired to make it all the way to the top of Okuhotaka Peak
Karesawa Lodge (2300m) – a mid valley “opt-out” accommodation for those too tired to make it all the way to the top of Okuhotaka Peak

 

A nice place to stay if you opt out of the push to the top.
A nice place to stay if you opt out of the push to the top. Just ask for a room with a view!

 

Tackling the Zaitengrad - a rocky spine that stretches down from the Hotaka hut - plenty of scrambling...
Tackling the Zaitengrad – a rocky spine that stretches down from the Hotaka hut – plenty of scrambling…

 

…with the help of chains and a few small ladders, but no technical climbing ability is necessary.
…with the help of chains and a few small ladders, but no technical climbing ability is necessary.

 

Hotaka Sansou Hut in the gloomy afternoon mist. Food and bedding at 3000m.
Hotaka Sansou Hut in the gloomy afternoon mist. Food and bedding at 3000m.

 

Hotaka Sansou Hut is actually perched spectacularly between Karesawa Peak and Okuhotaka Peak at just under 3000m. One of dozens of fantastically serviced huts in the region. Be warned though, your helicopter-delivered beer will set you back a little more than usual!
Hotaka Sansou Hut is actually perched spectacularly between Karesawa Peak and Okuhotaka Peak at just under 3000m. One of dozens of fantastically serviced huts in the region. Be warned though, your helicopter-delivered beer will set you back a little more than usual!

 

Hotaka Hut reception and dining area...
Hotaka Hut reception and dining area…

 

Hotaka Hut, now 90 years old, can accommodate 200 people, serve hot dinner and breakfast, and provide fresh drinking water and snacks. The drying rooms are great - there are even foot warming stoves to enjoy!
Hotaka Hut, now 90 years old, can accommodate 200 people, serve hot dinner and breakfast, and provide fresh drinking water and snacks. The drying rooms are great – there are even foot warming stoves to enjoy!

 

The lounge area in Hotaka mountain hut is the perfect place to get talking to local hikers, and warm up, after a tough day on the trail.
The lounge area in Hotaka mountain hut is the perfect place to get talking to local hikers, and warm up, after a tough day on the trail.

 

My Hotaka Hut bedroom - futon and quilts on a tatami (rush straw mat) floor - cosy and warm - we were lucky having a 6 person room to just 4 of us.
My Hotaka Hut bedroom – futon and quilts on a tatami (rush straw mat) floor – cosy and warm – we were lucky having a 6 person room to just 4 of us.

 

At last, after an ascent where it was hardly worth getting the camera out - the Karesawa Valley below Hotaka Hut shows itself in the early morning light! The group had little idea of how gorgeous this valley is until this point!
At last, after an ascent where it was hardly worth getting the camera out – the Karesawa Valley below Hotaka Hut shows itself in the early morning light! The group had little idea of how gorgeous this valley is until this point!

 

Considerable scrambling required near the Okuhotaka Summit
Considerable scrambling required near the Okuhotaka Summit

 

Okuhotaka Summit - Japan's 3rd highest at 3190m.
Okuhotaka Summit – Japan’s 3rd highest at 3190m.

 

And there's the proof. The shrine on top is typical of many mountains in Japan - home to the gods and historically the domain of pilgrims and priests until the late 1800s
And there’s the proof. The shrine on top is typical of many mountains in Japan – home to the gods and historically the domain of pilgrims and priests until the late 1800s

 

Time to get a few shots whilst the weather is kind at the summit!
Time to get a few shots whilst the weather is kind at the summit!

 

Views from Okuhotaka Peak
Views from Okuhotaka Peak

 

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Maehotaka Peak – not today, maybe next year!

 

Steady descending on Zaitengrad's challenging boulders
Time to descend – 8-10 hours. Tricky descending on Zaitengrad’s challenging boulders

 

Tackling the 'Zaitengrad' boulders on descent.
The morning heat and tricky rocks make for steady progress.

 

As the legs and mind are weary, forest cover eases the way, on the final 2 hour stretch downstream and back to the hotel area in Kamikochi.
As the legs and mind become weary, flat trail and forest cover eases the way, on the final 2 hour stretch downstream and back to the hotel area in Kamikochi.

 

A troop of Macaque Monkeys - often found around the forested lower Azusa river valley, greeted a number of our hikers near the hotel.
A troop of Macaque Monkeys – often found around the forested lower Azusa river valley, greeted a number of our hikers near the hotel.

 

This was the view up the Dakesawa Valley that welcomed us after a long 10 hour descent. One last photo before check-in at the riverside hotel - hot spring baths, futon and a French meal awaiting us!
This was the view up the Dakesawa Valley that welcomed us after a long 10 hour descent. One last photo before check-in at the riverside hotel – hot spring baths, futon and a French meal awaiting us!

 

Matsumoto is surely one of Japan's finest little cities. After time in the hills a little culture can be absorbed here - the 16th century castle with the Alpine setting in the background from our previous days' endeavors. There is also a fantastic woodblock print gallery and charming old merchant streets to enjoy. I may live here one day!
Matsumoto is surely one of Japan’s finest little cities. After time in the hills a little culture can be absorbed here – the 16th century castle with the Alpine setting in the background from our previous days’ endeavors. There is also a fantastic woodblock print gallery and charming old merchant streets to enjoy. I may live here one day!

 

Never guaranteed, but we managed to book afternoon tea at a local teahouse, fortunate enough to enjoy a dance performance, chatting and playing drinking games with a 'maiko' - a trainee geisha.
Never guaranteed, but we managed to book afternoon tea at a local teahouse in Kyoto, fortunate enough to enjoy a dance performance, chatting and playing drinking games with a ‘maiko’ – a trainee geisha.

 

The greener, quieter Subashiri trail on Mt Fuji is where most of the hike is completed, rising from 2000m to around 3400m in just 5 hours. Dinner at 6, bed at 7:30 and up again the next morning at 2 for the final 2.5 hour push to the summit.
The greener, quieter Subashiri trail on Mt Fuji is where most of the hike is completed, rising from 2000m to around 3400m in just 5 hours. Dinner at 6, bed at 7:30 and up again the next morning at 2 for the final 2.5 hour push to the summit.

 

Here comes the sun - on top of the "Land of the Rising Sun" (3776m) - what everyone has hiked up Mt Fuji to see. The breaking of a new day from above.
Here comes the sun – on top of the “Land of the Rising Sun” (3776m) – what everyone has hiked up Mt Fuji to see. The breaking of a new day from above.

 

You never get lonely on Mt Fuji. We were lucky enough to hike behind chanting Buddhist Monks during our final push to the top.
You never get lonely on Mt Fuji. We were lucky enough to hike behind chanting Buddhist Monks during our final push to the top.

 

Sun, sun , sun - her it comes!
Sun, sun , sun – her it comes!

 

A peek inside the crater - even in the height of summer, a little snow remains in patches within the crater. All is peaceful below, for now!
A peek inside the crater – even in the height of summer, a little snow remains in patches within the crater. All is peaceful below, for now!

 

The beautiful shadow cast by Mt Fuji in the early morning. A treat on a clear day for those that circuit the crater rim.
The beautiful shadow cast by Mt Fuji in the early morning. A treat on a clear day for those that circuit the crater rim.

 

Glorious views down to Kawaguchi Lake and its surrounding mountains. The descent typically takes 3-4 hours on loose volcanic scree
Glorious views down to Kawaguchi Lake and its surrounding mountains.
The descent typically takes 3-4 hours on loose volcanic scree

 

 

After a long Fuji descent few make it beyond the hot spring bath house and bed before dinner - for those with a little more energy, the Hakone Open Air Sculpture park never fails to impress
After a long Fuji descent few make it beyond the hot spring bath house and soft bed for an afternoon nap before dinnertime – for those with a little more energy, however,  the Hakone Open Air Sculpture park never fails to impress

 

Oh, and then it was back to this - a final sendoff in the neon of Tokyo.
Oh, and then it was back for final sendoff in the exhilarating neon of Tokyo’s mega cool Shinjuku district. The full circle of adventure complete!

 

 

 

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