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I’ve written a few times for this blog about running whilst in Japan; Osaka at dawn and the Tokyo Imperial Palace circuit. It seems fitting then that I write about this morning’s little four miler, a beautiful jaunt through the tiny lanes of Nakanoshima.
If you don’t know where this is, you’re not alone. Nakanoshima, known locally as Ama, is part of the Oki Islands. Lying about 43 miles off the coast of Shimane Prefecture, these are relatively unheard of both for foreign and Japanese tourists alike. Volcanic in origin they protrude from the sea like dragon’s teeth and are clothed so dense with verdant vegetation that they remind me of the Lost World. Though the biggest creature in there is probably a rabbit, the forests look like they support so much more.
The largest of the islands is Dogo, where I spent a night, but Nakanoshima is much smaller (with an area of just 20 sq. miles) and along with Nishinoshima and Chiburijima (where I’ll be heading to soon) are part of a large caldera and are known collectively as Douzen. With no virtually no large buildings, no trains, no convenience stores and only 2500 residents it feels a world away from mainland Japan in both appearance and experience.
I set off from my lodging, the delightful Minshuku Tajimaya, ambled next to rice paddies in the midst of being harvested before turning abruptly and steeply through the woods. The effort was rewarded when I found myself on a tall bridge that gave way to lovely coastal views, and I was surprised to see a beautiful osprey perched on a nearby tree. Meandering downhill I hit the coast line which I followed, the water calm like a painting, the only disruption a steely grey heron looking for an early morning fish. Once I hit two miles I turned around and retraced my steps. No cars, no people, what a pleasant way to start the day.
Let us know if you would like to explore the not-so-well explored Oki islands for a slice of rural Japanese culture and serenity. The Oki Islands also feature on the Rural Japan Explorer tour.