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Everyone here at Inside Japan Tours loves a soak in one of Japan’s many wonderful and famous hot springs (onsen) – in fact, we’ve written about onsen etiquette and our favourite hot spring baths a few times before.
However, tour leader Richard Pearce claims to be the ultimate IJT onsen expert. As he lives in the picturesque and historic Misasa Onsen, a hot spring town in Tottori Prefecture, and soaks with locals most days – he may have a point! Read on for his “Local’s guide to onsen bathing”, which he regularly puts into practice at Kawaraburo hot spring near the Misasa Ohashi Bridge.
1) First, remove your clothes…
This can be done behind the screen next to the bath or even by the side of the path. Many of the older regulars strip off and store their clothes next to the path or on the rocks behind the baths. No towels or swimwear allowed! Unless specifically stated, clothing should NOT be worn in ANY onsen, inside or out.
2) Take a plastic bowl…
Take one of the plastic bowls provided, crouch down next to the bath and fill the bowl with water from the bath (showers are not provided at the the Kawaraburo). Pour the water over your “dirty” bits, back and front. Repeat this step about 6 times.
This is correct, traditional etiquette for all onsen in Japan. Some guides state that you should wash with soap and shampoo before entering the bath – and this is indeed what most Japanese people do. However, this is technically not mandatory and many older bathers do not adhere to this. As long as they rinse before entering, please do not think them dirty! However, if showers are available, most bathers will wash with soap before entering the bath.
3) Enter the bath of your choice…
…and relax!
4) Next, its time for a good scrub.
*This step is specific to Kawaraburo, and any other onsen where showers are not provided. If you are using an onsen with showers, skip!*
After a few minutes, take the plastic bowl and pour a couple of loads over the ground next to the bath. This serves to warm the chilly concrete a little. Sit directly on the ground and drape your small towel over your knee. Rub the soap vigorously over the towel to create a soapy lather. Using the now soapy towel, give yourself a good scrub from head to foot. Finally, use the bowl and bath water to thoroughly rinse off. Be sure not to get any soap or soapy water in the bath. Fill the bowl again and thoroughly rinse the soap from the towel.
Many visitors to Japan are often unsure of the purpose of the small towel you bring with you into the bathing area. Some see it as a modesty thing, and it can serve that purpose if you so wish. However, the main purpose is for applying soap to your body as above. The bowls, usually found under the tap faucet, are used to thoroughly rinse the towel out. This is true at any Japanese onsen.
5) Return to the bath of your choice…
…and soak for as long as you like – or as long as you can handle!
6) Get out, dry off, go home and drink lots of water/beer.
For indoor onsen, you should squeeze out the water from your small towel and use it to dry yourself to some degree before returning to the changing area.
Other tips and observations about Kawaraburo:
After heavy rain the temperature of the bath drops considerably for a few days.
The baths are cleaned odd days of the month (1,3,5 etc.). The baths are emptied and slowly refilled from about 10am-2pm on those days.
It’s mixed bathing so ladies are most welcome, too. Naked, of course!