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As Kyoto, and specifically its geisha district, Gion, becomes more and more popular with foreign visitors, it’s important to understand the impact on geisha themselves.
So, our Japan-based Head of Operations, Tyler, went to find out. He sat down with Tomitsuyu, an experienced geiko (to use the Kyoto term) who was born and raised in Kyoto.
Here, Tyler shares the highlights from their conversation.
What made you reach out to Tomitsuyu initially?
The media have reported fairly heavily on overtourism in Kyoto, but that narrative doesn’t include voices from the people at the heart of it: the geisha themselves. I had a special opportunity to speak directly with Tomtisuyu one-on-one, and it was such an honour to sit down and hear her honest opinion.
How did Tomitsuyu become a geiko?
Like many geiko, Tomitsuyu started training young, at the age of 15, and she’s now got 12 years’ experience. She told me just how passionate she is about people understanding geisha culture and the traditional arts they learn. Geiko spend years perfecting their craft, from dance to playing musical instruments to tea ceremonies. Tomitsuyu emphasised just how much she loves sharing this with visitors; it’s a gateway to understanding traditional Japan better, in real life.
What impact have crowds had?
I have absolutely noticed more and more people visiting Gion. It’s a compact area within Kyoto, with traditional houses and small streets, so the increase in people does make quite an impact. When I spoke to Tomitsuyu, she had strong views, telling me:
“Gion has become too much – both because of the crowds and the behaviour of tourists. At times, it feels like Gion is Disneyland and I’m Mickey Mouse.
“Geiko are now taking taxis rather than walking the five minutes or so to tea houses, simply to avoid unwanted photos and intense attention. But even when we do this, tourists swarm the cars and bang on windows. They even gather outside our homes, waiting to take photos and videos. It’s intimidating and scary.”
Her reference to Mickey Mouse really hit home. For me, it highlighted that some people see the area as an amusement park, rather than somewhere people live and work.
Despite all of this, Tomitsuyu was very clear that she still loves meeting people. It’s why she became a geiko in the first place, and she’s just keen that tourism is done in the right way.
She also reminded me that it’s not just geisha themselves that benefit from the industry. For example, it also helps kimono designers, hair ornament makers and makers of unique zori sandals. It sounds obvious when she says it, but the positive impact of geisha tourism goes beyond the tea houses.
How can people see geisha in a responsible and respectful way?
There are lots of ways to meet geisha that offer genuine insight into their traditions – and I find that these are the experiences that customers really enjoy, anyway! Rather than chasing geisha through the streets to catch a glimpse, it’s much better to sit down and have a two-way conversation, or to see them perform for yourself.
These experiences don’t have to be prohibitively expensive, either.
For example, nearly all our Small Group Tours include a private audience with a maiko (trainee geisha), which is always really fun and a great chance to ask questions. We also work with a local guide, Junko (whose grandmother was a geisha) who runs a fantastic walking tour through Gion. There’s also the Gion Kagai Museum, where you can see kimono, fans and hair ornaments up close and see maiko perform.
When I asked Tomitsuyu, she was positive about these structured visits, telling me: “I support venues where tourists can learn what we do. It’s much better than trying to spot us, like a ‘rare bird’ on the street.”
What’s important to remember when meeting a geiko?
My biggest piece of advice would be to enjoy the experience! Geisha genuinely love sharing their skills with visitors, and are very happy to be asked questions – so don’t be shy. It’s always best to go with a guide who can translate for you, and you can also ask them if you’re worried any of your questions would be inappropriate.
Be open, and you’ll be surprised at where the conversation can take you. Jasmine from our marketing team recently joined a private audience with a maiko in Kyoto and loved how the conversation flowed so naturally after the group warmed up. They ended up finding out what the maiko did in her free time (turns out, she likes Netflix as much as the next person), and quite surprisingly that she liked rugby – revealing a secret desire to play scrum half one day!
How should people act to maintain respect for geiko at work?
Tomitsuyu made some practical suggestions that may seem obvious, but I’ve certainly seen people act a bit differently when caught up in the moment in Gion!
If you see a geisha on the street, remember, first and foremost that they are real people, often young women, and overenthusiastic behaviour can be intimidating.
Keep a respectful distance and remember that they are working and may be with clients. Enjoy the moment of beauty rather than taking a photo without permission. And, of course, don’t touch geisha or their kimonos.
Remember, the buildings in geisha districts are homes and places of business, so you can’t just walk in without an appointment. Be careful not to block any entrances or exits, and as with anywhere in Japan, it’s always worth checking for discrete signs – like a rope around a stone which indicates no entry, or no pictures.
Any final thoughts?
We want people to keep travelling to Japan for years to come, adding positively to the areas we visit, rather than negatively impacting them. If you’re curious about how we’re addressing overtourism, you may like to read our co-founder, Alastair’s, blog on overtourism in Kyoto.